Types of Women's Jacket
SusanSu, your Personal shopper, shows you the different types of women's jacket and their origin. Take note!!
The women's jacket has evolved over the years and receives different denominations according to its lines and fabrics. It is the most versatile garment that exists and cannot be missing in our closet.
AMERICAN
During the s. XIX, English emigrants moved to the United States, carrying their most precious tailoring. There they copied and modified them, giving them their differentiating notes. Hence the name of the American jacket. Thus, the English jacket model was developed in America with two buttons of which only the first one was fastened and replacing the only rear opening with two.
TIP: Whenever we sit down we should unbutton the jacket and when we get up, buckle it up but only the button above. In both cases, male or female.
BLAZER or BLASIER
The blazer jacket has its origin in England. In the year 1837 and on the occasion of a visit of Queen Victoria to a frigate H.M.S. Blazer, his captain, commissioned a special garment, which was novel for the time and with which he would later dress his entire crew. It became popular very quickly and has always been closely linked to the nautical world.
The blazer has a casual cut and includes some differential accessories such as metal buttons or patch pockets. You can also carry a badge in your chest pocket. In addition, it can be linear or cross. If in the past, it was always navy blue or ‘navy blue’, crossed and with six golden buttons, today, it is common to see many variants of this jacket.
CRUSADE
The crossed jacket, which has its origin in the blazer, is undoubtedly the most elegant of all jackets and, meanwhile, the cross suit has a great packaging and class. This dress jacket is characterized by having a symmetrical set of buttons on each side, the left side folds over the right and its closure is secured with an inner button.
There are different types of crossed jacket, depending on the number of buttons you have. When the jacket has two buttonholes to button, the two are never buttoned, only the upper one must be buttoned and the lower one is always loose.
TOWER OR BOLERO
It differs from the rest of women's jackets, for its cut above the waist, its long and tight sleeves. On its origin: In 1800, men's fashion imposed the coat or jacket with two rear skirts, long and open. Lord Spencer, a rebel Englishman, decided to cut off her skirts and the nació spencer ’was born, which was immediately appropriate by the women who wore it during the day, with English fabrics, or at night, with sumptuous fabrics.
During the thirties, Nina Ricci rescued the famous ‘spencer’ and baptized him as a bolero, given the fury of the time for Latin music. Bolero, mambo and rumba was the most heard in those years thanks to the composer Xavier Cugat. By 1950, Cristóbal Balenciaga made it fashionable again and called it a bullfighter, since the Gipuzkoan fashion designer was inspired by the embroidered and colorful jackets of Spanish bullfighters. And with the retro fashion of the 80s and 90s, he returned with all his splendor.
Today, all designers use it as either a short jacket or a tight jacket, made of wool, velvet or lace fabrics, depending on whether it is day or night. It is another one of those jackets that never goes out of style and is ideal for special or distinguished occasions, especially when you want to give prominence to the lower part of the wardrobe.
AVIATOR OR BOMBER
Made of sheep wool inside and lined with leather, this jacket had wide lapels with seals. It was called ‘bomber’, because it was the bomber pilots who used it frequently. But since not all airmen required the same coat, in the 1930s, a lighter jacket, the A-2, was created. It was passed to the cotton lining and to the outside of horse skin, and shortened and adjusted so that it was also comfortable in the small cabins. Also, waist and cuffs were fastened so that the air did not enter.
And in the forties, something more practical was thought for the pilots and a warmer jacket was made, with light synthetic and waterproof fabrics, the B15, which is what we now call ‘bomber’. Leather or nylon, it is characterized by a zip closure, and elastic and more tight cuffs and waist. It became fashionable among men in the 50s, thanks to James Dean in ‘Rebel Without a Cause’, although only a decade later, in the sixties, women also dared to put it on, even with a miniskirt.
BIKER OR PERFECT
It is the typical biker style leather jacket. In the eighties, it became popular among the punk and ‘heavy metal’ movements, by adding metal rivets, and today, it is a versatile garment that is always in style and that combines with almost everything.
The first leather jacket properly considered ‘biker’ and probably the most famous was designed by the Schott Brothers in 1928 in the United States and they named it ‘perfect’. His fame shot up when, in 1953, Marlon Brando wore one in the movie ‘Wild’, playing the leader of a biker band.
This jacket is a basic in our wardrobe, and far from going out of style, we can find it in different styles and colors, in bright leather, in suede, in cloth, combined with applications of skin or hair, etc. If we choose a traditional model in black leather it will be a garment that will serve us forever.
COWBOY OR "DENIM"
It is a perfect jacket to wear at halftime. Based on the work clothes of American cowboys and pioneers, in the 60s it was worn by workers and farmers for its great comfort, resistance and versatility and, in the seventies, it became the symbol of the hippy movement.
The ‘denim’ jacket is in constant recycling and revived in the 90s, when climbing the catwalks and being considered one of the most ‘luxe’ pieces in our closet bottoms. Unsuitable for the cold, if we superimpose it on a warm sweater, problem solved. And if we want to look something carefree, youthful and rebellious, this is our key pledge.
BASEBALL
It is the typical jacket worn by players of American baseball teams. It has a round and elastic neck, and the waist and cuffs are also elastic. The buttons are square and have embroidered letters, usually on the front.
Among its great advantages is comfort, because this jacket is ‘oversize’ and allows great mobility. We find it of many different models. One of the most popular is that of sleeves of different colors than the rest of the garment and with printed letters. If we want to provoke a ‘casual’ but ‘cool’ style, this is the ideal jacket. We can use it with skirts and heels, achieving a pretty chic look.
CHANEL
The ‘little black jacket’ is one of Coco Chanel's great contributions to the fashion world. Made with tweed, straight cut and masculine shape, the chanel jacket became a symbol of freedom by allowing a fluid movement and perfectly fit the woman's body.
This jacket has a very interesting history. Coco designed it at the end of the 20s, when she had a semi-clandestine romance with the Duke of Westminster. The designer devised a jacket inspired by the hunting costumes of her lover and the somewhat masculine clothes of her friend Vera Wate. He thought of a garment that could be used for almost any occasion or time of day or night. And a few years later, she made some modifications that made her a little more feminine and not so framed, and that was when she finished gaining popularity among European women.
It is a simple, fitted jacket, its length above the hip and with very simple buttons, which undoubtedly has become a classic for us. It is a straight cut, closed and without tweezers, which allows us to move easily, but at the same time transmits femininity. At some point he had shoulder pads, but Chanel removed them to remove stiffness.
SAFARI OR SAHARIANA
This jacket, made of cotton or linen, is fitted at the waist and has four pockets, two bellows and two other patch. Originally, it was a military garment used by the English Navy in India at the beginning of the s. XIX. Because of its beige or khaki color - which in Hindi means ‘dusty’, ‘the color of the earth’, inspired by pajamas shirts, it was ideal for the military to go unnoticed.
Ernest Hemingway popularized it on a safari he made in East Africa in 1933 and during which he wrote ‘The Snows of Kilimanjaro’. Since then, this garment is also known as a safari jacket. In addition, the cinema conferred those airs of nobility that characterize it. In the 50s and 60s, Clark Gable or Charlton Heston, among others, took her out of the military to turn her into the Saharan jacket of Peter O‘Toole in ‘Lawrence of Arabia’.
In 1966, it was Yves Saint Laurent who made this men's jacket a feminine garment. Over three years, the designer presented the Saharan in his collections. In 1968, he was even inspired by an entire collection, ‘Africa’. Today, the Saharan jacket admits countless possibilities and stands as one of the essential warm clothes of the halftime.
PEPPLUM
The peplum jacket is distinguished by the steering wheel that adapts to the waist, enhances the feminine shapes, giving the woman who wears it in a unique and special style. The hips are emphasized, creating more voluptuous curves.
Interestingly, if we look for the origin of the ‘péplum’, we have to go back to Ancient Greece, where we find the ‘peplo’ or women's clothing at the time. It consisted of a rectangular tunic, fastened on the shoulders by means of buckles or brooches, and fitted at the waist with a belt, forming several folds and giving rise to an over-skirt at the height of the hips.
